This engine rotates counter-clockwise, so the first mark is the full advance mark, and the second mark is TDC. Our main concern is that we have spark and that the spark occurs at the right time when the engine is at full or maximum advance. We want them to open when the piston is in the right position before Top-Dead-Center (BTDC). Battery ignitions have 6 or 12 volts so they wear out much more quickly. If you have a query or information about BSA motorcycles please contact us. You take a wire from the negative of the battery and just after you have started the bike you touch the other end of the wire to the dynamo body for half a second. flywheel is spinning at 6 to 12000 RPM, between your legs. All different. When you find the points wire connect a Buzz Box to it and turn it on. This is because it has a centrifugal spark advance. This sends the piston backwards if you are kick starting, have your foot on the kick start lever and don't kick hard enough. Since the regulator-rectifier cannot be tested, the only way to identify it as bad is to eliminate every other possibility first, so checking the stator is a necessary step in determining if you have a bad regulator. The first dynamic test allows you to check the rotor that contains the magnets and spins around the stator. Remember the timing marks must match when the paper pulls loose. That gives you 128 cigarette papers. The magnets usually cannot be replaced individually, so you must replace the rotor as a unit if it is damaged. When the points open, it disrupts this electric field, causing the spark that fires the fuel/air mixture in the engine. Inspect the outboard ends of the coils for evidence of contact with the rotor. When done blow the points off with compressed air and clean with acetone. Now, connect the stator to the regulator. You want the points to open when the moving mark, exactly matches, the full advance mark. Take the bike for a long run as this sometimes remagnetises the magnet. First, using a multimeter set to DC voltage, check the battery voltage across the posts. Most (but not all) of the two-stroke engines had fixed advance. dial indicator. Do not use Gasoline because it will leave a very slight residue on the points. Then touch the pigtail wire to the condenser case. Take the bike for a long run as this sometimes remagnetises the magnet. If you do not know the direction of rotation simply push on the kick starter lever. With the ignition switch in the “Off” position, disconnect the regulator from the stator. Just drag the sandpaper back and forth across a closed set of points till they are shinny. Make sure no bits of paper get caught in the points. It is usually a black wire with a white strip or a solid black wire but not always. When the piston is at that spot, say 1.9mm BTDC, the points should open, causing the spark to occur. in the advance unit at full advance (a lot of them, anyway!). If not then you Most Japanese dirt bikes made before 1980 had points ignition (but not all) (at least, I have never had any trouble). To get the best spark keep the point gap within the manufacturers specifications. The two points must have contact ONLY through the round points themselves. If you show an open circuit with the “Open” or infinity reading or have higher resistance, then the stator is bad and you must replace it. In the picture on the left, you can see "A", the points and the screw that holds them in, and "B", the adjusting groove. Click on the picture to the right, and you will see two marks on the crankcase and the one on the flywheel. Check the condition of the cables. If the marks are right on then you need go no further. sometimes...and then again, sometimes not. It is possible to buy all the bearings and spacers for them separately to repair yourself. Pull the Flywheel cover and find the points wire that comes out of the top of the crankcase. Check your shop manual. Look at how much it moved and in what direction. But that's OK...Yamaha was thoughtful enough to put a little hole in the flywheel which lines up with a hole If it advanced just a little bit, set it a bit retarded and then tighten the points screw. This example is an old Hodaka 100cc engine with no automatic advance. You will find in six times out of ten, the timing has moved. The two common ignition types are contact point or capacitor discharge (CDI). When replacing the points wire, take a good look at how the wire is placed running to the points. For Japanese engines it is usually between .012" to .014" (0.3mm to 0.4mm). Now adjust the point gap open or closed until the Buzz Box changes tone exactly when the moving mark on the flywheel and the stationary mark on the crankcase coincide. If you do not, the dry You can also use an ohm meter or a piece of cigarette paper. to dry them. The example to the left has one mark on the crankcase and all the other marks on the flywheel. It is hard If you position the points wire wrong, part of the spinning flywheel could wear through the wire's insulation and short out the wire and the points. Rev the engine up to 3,000 rpm and read the meter. It sounds so easy, and it can be... Dry and oily go to a uniform state. The tone will change when the points open. When the points open, the paper will come loose. The problem of dynamos not working when laid up for a while is normally due to the residual magnetism in the magnet which the field coil is wrapped around not being there. ANY oil on the points will cause them not to work. Once you have the stator exposed, you can perform a visual inspection. Throw the old points out and install the new points. Motorcycle ignition systems are relatively easy to check and correct. Set the points gap to the correct value with the Flywheel in place. Most of the wear on Magneto Points is not on the Contact Points, but on the Points Heel. If you do not have at least 12.5 volts, install a battery charger and charge the battery. I have over 30 of them. One thing to remember. They tell us that evolution is true, that simple goes to complex. Take a good look at the points wire before you change the points and reposition it on the new points in the same way.magneto_condenser.jpg. Then check it. Generally, you can check motorcycle alternator stators while they're installed on the bike, using a quality multimeter. If you time an engine with a dial indicator there is no need for timing marks, however, if the engine you are working on has no timing marks, you can make your own. I use an air gun to loosen them and the worlds best strap wench (Briggs & Stratton part # 19372) to hold the flywheel while I torque the nut. This wear on the points heel causes the points to be out of time with the rotating magnet even when the Ignition Timing is set right. Once all this is set, theoretically, when the points are worn out, you should be able to replace the points with a new set, set the gap and all will be correctly timed. Now a lot of Magnetos on smaller Japanese bikes have Stator Plates that are bolted to the crankcase with screws that have no adjustment but an equal number have Stator Plates that have elongated holes and are adjustable. Touch the other probe to any chassis ground. coil. In the worst case, it can snap back and break your leg. Fully authorised workshop. No matter how clean and well maintained you keep your bike if you offend with neglect of your points you will be guilty of all because your bike will not run.

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