Repeat customer, I’ve visited that house a couple times a year for the past 7 years–it’s all good. It just dissuaded me from polymeric sand. Your email address will not be published. I am working on installing a small flagstone walkway with decomposed granite base. Not polymeric, it doesn’t harden. Devin, thank you for the article and for your generosity in responding to questions/comments. This can make the stone slippery and change it’s appearance…without providing any benefit. I just want to say thank you for your articles and all the questions you’ve answered on here. First of all, thanks for the fast response. This also helps to pack it down. We decided on pea gravel as a less cost interim before we could afford brick or slate for our back patio area. Furthermore, the polymeric sand stays in place because it is glued together and also glued to the stones or bricks it is placed between. Here’s the view the hour before the tour started: You would never be able to tell that so many people walked on it yesterday! I’d put it on the leveled DG layer instead. My pea gravel path was put to the test yesterday when over 500 people walked on it during the Inside Austin Gardens Tour. Very stylistic and attractive stone fitting, very beautiful and interesting contours–I know it’s a bummer having to re-do some of your work, but this patio is going to be amazing, and real soon too. And the answer is always–make them flagstones fit tighter! My brother suggested sand? Question: contractors want to use polymeric filler or some combo of filler. But wait, the limestone dust that you have access to is just flour? Or plan a ground cover of some type. That would take a bit of my time and consultation fees would be applicable. I suppose I could…but I just did a google image search and the results look right to me. ( Log Out / Psyllium husk joint binder is, as far as I can tell, a lot more natural than an acrylic based product. Polymeric sand, or “poly-sand” seemed great at first. Simple, right? You need river-washed rounded gravel – pea gravel as it’s sometimes called. What you need to do is take off the pea gravel, compact a good base for it, and use maybe an inch of the pea gravel over the top. I wonder how it works on a hill? It was too dark for pictures by that point, but the result was very hard and flat and the pea gravel stayed put when I stepped from the pea gravel onto the mulch. Yes, it stops the joint material, sand/stone dust in place, but it hardens up, then cracks up, then you got these broken up pieces of mortar. If my advice is at all helpful, then please share my stuff on social media. Soil then, comes in many types: Hummus, sand, silt, clay, gravel. These stones can be used to dress up any property and are also highly functional. Couldn't other binding agents like lime/ash or cement be used? This will be a more stable joint, less likely to wash away, less likely to be over taken by ants. Here is a link that might be useful: Klingstone Paths. I had it up front for a while, but it clashed like crazy with my brick. http://www.stepables.com/ stepables . The mallet can only do minor adjustments, as far as leveling flagstones is concerned. This allows space for your child to play in the pea gravel and not have a large drop off when they step into the box. On occasions when I have wanted red for in-between the flagstones, I’ve just used grey for leveling, and purchased a smaller amount of the red. Please consider it for a minute. Didn’t like the sound of the poly sand. I haven’t been able to find much info about it so I really hope it really is a “natural” alternative to polymers. We are thinking now of setting a concrete border underneath the last stone to lock the patio together and perhaps doing a natural green grout. It did say that clean up was with ammonia, so isit stray cat proof? But the real complaint that I have against this gravel glue epoxy whatever we’re talking about, the real complaint is that it just does not look good. Still, this stuff is what you are asking me for. I did not want to mention this option–because I do not like it. I’d prefer to avoid power tools and stick with as much a natural look as possible. You may have to wait a few months since he is sought after like that, but he, does travel to new jersey. Stick to plain stone dust is my advice, and keep the joints tight! Stone dust, for the win. This is a huge advantage because it means that the stones can be. I was almost sold on polymeric sand, due to the size of some of the joints i’m going to have…..but read your blog. I’m an inside DIY-er, dying to do a cool fire pit area below my back porch! I have in place 30 year old clay brick patios and walkways. Any corrections or suggestions I should be advised of? To be fair I’ve seen exceptions! We have had successful installations at James Madison's Montpelier, the Arkansas Governors Mansion, Colonial Williamsburg and most recently at Thomas Jefferson's Monticello. Yea, buy a few brick, cut them, do it right. 1. I’m doing a small extension of a patio leading to a path about 200’x18″. Take your time and get out what you can. Filled with stone dust and in order to keep the gaps looking regular we only had to re-cut a few of them to correct the factories imperfect cutting…. Yea, hardened into something spongey–that’s a polymeric sand type material. Good luck with your flagstone project! Something like a coarsely shredded cedar won’t compact and will also take much longer to break down than something finely chipped from a softer wood that will decompose fast in the elements. One thing I forgot to ask originally was the issue of freeze-thaw cycle and the potential for the limestone to hold water and then potentially crack the flagstone. I have been extremely happy with it -- it looks great and has stayed neat, clean, and stable for two years now. I'm not about breakingand rules here, but if it's a solution to manylandscape problems, win/win.
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